I can confirm: the mentioned change is the addition of a free Mini USB cable for every Hannah ordered.
It’s just another way to say that we are sorry for the delays.
DHL has in hands the packages for Europe already.
Australia and other Countries are on their way from Hong Kong already since the beginning of the week.
Unfortunately we got a bulk shipmet stuck in Alaska with FedEx unable to understand what is an Hannah and so they can’t decide which product’s code to assign for the custom clearance :@ hope they will solve it by the day so tomorrow we can dispatch the US shipments as well.
Just got my notification from DHL that my Hannah is now in transit from the SmartMaker pickup location and is now en-route to the Italian sorting Hub.
Never have I been so happy to see the word “SHIPPED”.
Its all trackable through DHL now which is the best tracking system I think. Once it lands in the UK then it will update and give me a date of delivery and on that morning they send an email and sms text message to give you a 1 hour delivery window.
If I am lucky it will fly out of Italy to land in the UK (about a 2-3 hour flight) before 4am ish as then it is only 2 steps away from being in the back of a van on its way to my house!
It is possible it will arrive tomorrow if not then it will be Monday or Tuesday as I dont think they do domestic deliveries on weekends.
Thanks for the free USB cable, that will be handy as I have a ton of USB to Micro USB cables but only 2 USB to Mini USB and one is only 18 inches long!
Thats a nightmare that a shipment is stuck in Alaska, is that the Hannah’s and other boards and parts destined to go to your Florida office? Thats an interesting way of imports getting to Florida from China/Hong Kong, it couldn’t be further away for entering the country and then to Florida.
Looking forward to the board arriving very much!
Have you marked the customs sheet as Samples or Similar and as Gift? It doesn’t actually mater here for this order as its value is well under the amount that tax can be added to by Customs.
Thanks Dimitri!!
Whats the stock level looking like on the Hannah’s Dimitri? If there are some left when i’m paid I think I will order another 2 so that I have a backup to use if I have two projects on the go and the 3rd to keep for the after school engineering, electronics and programming clubs we run in the area.
We haven’t really introduced the IoT to them yet and I think an Imp in a Hannah will be a great introduction.
It also allows them to come up with their own IoT projects, test functions with a Hannah and then go and buy (get thrit parents to buy) an Imp and April Breakout for just £22 or if they have an Arduino (or even a smartmaker kit) then they can add a couple of £ to get a shield and create with even more I/O connectivity.
Are the Smartmaker Shield/Breakout snap away thingy you created getting close to finish as well? Again thats something I will be coming back for.
The IMP002 I’m not too worried about. Its a great tool for integrating into a product or full project but currently it doesn’t tick all the boxes for me and for how I use my Imps and other wifi and RF modules. Its really more of a permanent use kind of item.
yes the material that got stuck in the Custom’s office in Alaska is elated to Hannah and so on. But everything is fine now, the goods are on their way to Florida and all the packing material, shipping labels and so on are ready there.
We never mark our shipments as gift or whatever, we do regular import, standard declarations and we pay duties and anything is required. It’s part of the job. The problem with the custom it was just a lazy operator @ FedEx that didn’t wan’t ro use the brain for a minute and just left the issue for the next on duty. Anyway everything is fine.
Hannah will be always in stock, this is a kind of news. I can’t give details because the thing involve other companies, including one with listed so everything is based on their press release, but a long term project based on the Hannah is on going and should be everything ready by the end of the month. This make us sure that we will produce and keep stock of the board for some time. Not something that I knew before, the confirmation arrived just last night.
The Break&Shield is in stock as well and we will keep to produce it, as we have plans based on the Electric Imp for the long term. We will start next week a strong campaign of recruiting for resellers, as I believe that ouside the US the local sellers are very important. So we will incentivate the most active seller of electronics for hobbyists around the world to carry the whole set of products related to Electric Imp.
I also have on my table other development boards developed by Hugo and the guys at the Imp and I’m thinking on which it could be the next. There are at least and half a dozen of ready to make project based on the Imp.
Holy Sh@t!! Just looked at the tracker and my Hannah is in the back of a van somewhere in the South West of the UK and will be delivered TODAY!!! Thats China to Italy to UK in just over 4 days!!! Amazing, I love DHL!
@Dimitri Thats great news! Its exciting to hear someone you will be designing and making then selling other designs and types of hardware to use with the Imp on a dev level! I love the Imp and associated products BUT I don’t really have any experience of taking a schematic and turning it into a PCB for manufacture on a Prototype level. Its one of the things I keep meaning to learn about and watch the hours and hours of work Farnell/Element14 did making their video series about Eagle and how to take an idea from a piece of paper to an application to layout the schematic and then transform into a PCB with everything where it should be.
Please keep us updated on your progress (I know how busy you are I dont think anyone here is expecting much till your Kickstarter orders are done and most of the parts in the Open System setup are Instock items).
WOOT! I am now a proud owner of my very own Hannah! Looking forward to having a play and test some ideas I have been working on.
Thanks Dimitri for the amazing service! You went above and beyond on this and got it moving in an amazing time frame.
Cheers!
PS - The Actual Imp is sold separately. In my case its one of the ones I already own and got last year but they are available on the Smart Maker site where I think they are cheapest.
the battery holder is actually part of the project. Also the previous version of Hannah was the same.
There are no components on the bottom of the PCB.
If you want to remove the battery pack, what I suggest is to melt one side with the tip of the soldering iron and pull just a bit. Then do the same on the other side. Then back again moving from one side to the other, until will get loose.
The double side tape used to keep in position will leave some glue on the PCB, as it stick pretty well. You can remove it easily with acetone. It will not hurt the PCB but take care to don’t touch the shaft of the potentiometer with it, because it will be very corrosive on the ABS used for that part!
I love the fact it carries a battery pack and is perfect for Imp use! Mine wont be removed, infact I was worried that you may not include it on this revision, but I was very happy when it turned up with the pack attached!
Im not sure how long a decent set of rechargable AA’s will last.
I might set it up polling temp pretty frequently and just leave it running to see how long it lasts. It should be a while as the Imp or anything on the Impee use much power really.
Thanks again Dimitri, you turned this around and did great work! I will buy you a drink if we ever cross paths at a show etc…
I will ask @Hugo if he can share with me the code they used on the Nora and see with them if we can adapt to the new Hannah Rev3 for a similar test.
I’m not sure is good idea to run the test here in China, as the trust I can have on the batteries (even big brands) is lower than I could feel giving a pile of plates to carry to my 2yo daughter.
Maybe we can put together the code for the test, share on GitHub and then collect the results from many users.
Or even better, we can create somethin shared on Xively so anyone will run the test can actually automatically add the results to the shared repository. I will check with Calum @Xively if this can be easy to put together.
I actually like the idea of a global test with different kind of batteries and different environments.
Make sure to add the ‘Bug Fix’ code as recommended in the Wiki
If your code doesn’t seem to load, toggle between ‘Bug Fix’ and your code in the Planner a few times.
PLEASE note that the temperature sensor and accelerometer has changed significantly since Rev2. More details in the SmartMAKER Hanna thread above this one.
In the same thread, these is a link to a ‘selftest’ code that you can run on your Rev3. It touches all of the devices, so you can crib from there for how to access the different pieces of the Rev3 until the Wiki is updated.
I would like to solder the header pins to the breakout access points on the Hannah Board. The 8 holes where the "spare"s are are no problem. But the 4 holes where the SCL and SDA are, are not accessible to solder in as the battery pack is in the way. Any suggestions? I really don’t want to unsolder the battery leads and remove the battery pack if possible.
@slibutti
I had the same issue, its actully quite an easy fix!
Take a row of 4 pins, grip the plastic and push firmly down onto a hard surface and keep pushing till the plastic spacer slides to the ends of the 4 pins.
Now tin your soldering iron with a generous amount of solder and add a little to one of the 2 middle through holes and a little to the end of the pin that will be going into it.
Hold the plastic spacer and lower it so the 4 pins are level with the surface of the PCB over the holes. The little bit of solder you put on one of the middle holes should stop it from going any further.
The fidily bit… line the pins up then apply the tip of your iron to the pin and hole that you tinned, one it melts very gently lower the rack of pins down by 1mm and keep them level, remove your iron and once the solder sets you should have all 4 pins in 4 holes held in place by one pin.
Then start at one end and solder the pins to the through holes trying to get as much solder into the hole as possible without letting it stack up on top, ideally you want your soldering to be about flush but if its not dont worry… Solder all 4 pins in the same manner.
Once they are in and soldered then have a look and see how much solder you have above the hole, if its more than about 0.25mm or less then your good, if its over then try cleaning your iron’s tip and then re-apply and try and either sink the solder or lift it on to the iron. DONT LEAVE YOUR IRON ON THERE TOO LONG as there are some SMD’s not far away!
If you have solder braid then thats best for removing any excess, you could also let it set and put a fine file to it to remove excess solder.
Now just put a thumb tip on each end of the plastic spacer and carefully but firmly slide it down towards the PCB, If you soldered it perfectly then the plastic will sit allmost flush with the PCB, most likely it will sit a little above the PCB but thats fine.
And your done! 4 Top soldered pins!
I could of explained that alot easier and quicker or just taken a photo of my own on which I did the very same. Mine sits with the plastic spacer about 0.25mm above the PCB but its fine and works well and has plenty of length to use female pins and jump leads.
const i2c_temp = 0x92; hardware.configure(I2C_89); local i2c = hardware.i2c89; function ShowTemperature(){ //Poll the temperature every n seconds imp.wakeup(60,ShowTemperature); local result = i2c.read(i2c_temp, "\\x00", 2); local t = ((result[0] << 4) + (result[1] >> 4)) * 0.0625; local tString = (format("Temperature: %.2f",t) + "°C" ); server.show(tString); server.log(tString); } imp.configure("Hannah V3 ShowTemperature", [], []); ShowTemperature();