imp, $25: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IMP001-US-R-ENG/1413-1003-ND/3979638
april, $10: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/APRIL/1413-1004-ND/3979640
…modules will also be on there in a month or so.
SAAAAWEEET!!! Placing a Digi order this week anyway 
Awesome. Now I can order a new Imp while ordering parts for my new Impee…just as soon as I finalize the board design.
This is really exciting, being on Digikey makes the product more “real” somehow.
Strange - Won’t ship to Canada do to “Export Controls”
Message when adding to cart “Due to U.S. export controls, we are unable to add this item to your order.”
Really??
CMS
Further, Digikey says that it is a restriction the vendor asked them to place on the parts orders from Canada.
???
Likewise to Australia:
Due to U.S. export controls, we are unable to add this item to your order.
Errr, ok so that’s set up wrong in their system! We’ll contact them and sort it out… there are no US export controls on this as we use industry standard encryption.
Thanks for the update, Hugo.
ETA? Or perhaps post here when sorted?
Thanks,
CMS
Can you recommend any of the SD sockets that are available on digikey? I already build my parts BOMs in digikey so this is a great! development.
I also think it could be a good idea to recommend a digikey SD socket reference. For most people, Digikey or Farnell (at least in Europa) is a good supplier choice.
There’s already a recommended socket on digikey, see http://devwiki.electricimp.com/doku.php?id=newimpee
Digikey now have the correct customs form, so let us know if they still don’t want to ship to you.
yes, but that Amphenol one is not working for me. It may be partially responsible for causing sporadic connections on pin 1.
maybe this one?
732-3818-1-ND
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/693063020911/732-3818-2-ND/3124582
If you have issues with the amp connector, contact us. It’s likely your imp card is out of spec and we can swap it out.
the amphenols work perfectly well allowing connections with even very weak signals. I’m using them extensively. I donated an eagle v5 lib to eImp some months ago that even contain the little positioning drills you need to have it professionally assembled with a pick&place, Hugo, not sure you’ve posted that already on the dev wiki pages. I’m fine if you would do so.
vedecoid - it is helpful to know that it works for some but quite definitely I am not having success - even with multiple imp cards including one brand-spanking new one.
did you purchase your Amphenol sockets from Digikey?
I did use the footprint from the imp website - thanks!
It could be possible that I have not done a perfect soldering job. like - perhaps the socket is sensitive to how flush or intimate the socket gets to the board. Even if this is a cause, it shows that this socket is not a robust one when combined with the imp. I think the solder joint itself is good.
In any of your designs to you have pin1 as an input?
somewhat related - one of the EE guys at work told me one of our products is moving from SD to microSD even though those parts are more expensive. One reason for the change is that the microSD sockets are more stable and we have had troubles with SD sockets. That was news to me - as I do not work on that side of our business. I asked him what manfucturer we use for SD sockets and he said something like… oh they are all from China… so in that case it is pointless to track down the make and model.
Still no go to Canada as of May 17, 2013 @ 3:06pm
Just adding my .02c … I’ve also used an Amphenol part (101-00313-68-02, from Digikey) several times without encountering any problems. I do use pin 1 as an Imp input.
- Larry
@cms thanks, we’ll follow up with them. They have all the docs but I don’t know how long it takes for them to get processed.
Fixed as of May 21, 2013 @11:00am. To Canada anyway…
Thanks!
back to the reliability of the amphenol: one needs to realise that SMD components ,n although perfectly possible, are not meant for manual soldering. All our assembly (own prototype production and series by manufacturer) are done with stencil, solder paste and a controlled reflow. That’s the only way to get repeatable reliable result with SMD components IMHO…